Updated to 2.0.9 - MarlinFirmware/Marlin@d7c77403fd8373c7b4bfb6a4fa6d6f25c1ff9feb
Ender 3 Max Configs for Marlin bugfix-2.0.x branch.
The posted configration files are based on stock hotend and extruder with bltouch. See releases for a compiled version.
After applying a new firmware, it's best to run M502 and M500 to load and save the default settings. You can also run Initialize EEPROM from the lcd screen under config advanced settings. You will need to re-level the bed after issuing M502.
You can issue commands using pronterface or octoprint (if you have it installed on a raspberry pi - recommended)
Reset settings and save them to EEPROM
M502 ; reset
M500 ; saved
I would recommend the following as these can differ for every machine:
- Tune your PID for the hotend
- Tune your PID for the bed (optional)
- Calibrate E-Steps for your extruder (default is 93 for Ender 3 printers)
- Calibrate Probe Z-Offset
- Remove the Z-stop if your X-axis stops before the probe can reach the bed
https://youtu.be/qPDBNBgdW6o?t=680 - Dr Vax on building the Marlin Firmware with VS Code.
In testing:
- Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers × 1
- Satsana Dual 4010 Fan Direct Drive with longer ducts - fan shroud
- PTFE Teflon® Premium Bowden Tube
- 3dmakerengineering.com Tungsten Carbide 3D Printer Nozzle
- BL-Touch
- SIBOOR Ender 3 Accessories Dual Z Axis Kit
- 2-Pack CR10 Z axis T8 Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut
- 2x ReliaBot 500mm T8 Tr8x8 Lead Screw and Brass Nut (Acme Thread, 2mm Pitch, 4 Starts, 8mm Lead) - Note: a little long, will stick out top of printer - perhaps put some spinning Groots on top?
- High Temperature CR-10 Plated Copper Heater Block for MK8 Extruder
- Copperhead™ Heat Break × 1 - Version: C-E
- Protronix Series 9 Extreme Performance Thermal Compound Paste
In order to use this config with the mods listed below, run the following commands (or modify as needed):
M301 P37.01 I5.19 D66.01 ;gulf coast hotend
M92 E139.28 ; WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder
M92 E147.71 ;set E-Steps for 0.6mm nozzle with WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder
M205 J0.1 ;set Junction Deviation
M900 K0.20 ;set linear advance
M420 Z0 ; turn off fade height or set to X mm
M500 ;save
NOTE: I still recommend that you calibrate your E-Steps (139.28 above).
- Gulfcoast Robotics All Metal Hotend Conversion Kit w/Polished Titanium Heatbreak
- WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder
- 3dmakerengineering.com Tungsten Carbide 3D Printer Nozzle
- PTFE Teflon® Premium Bowden Tube
- BL-Touch
I did not start using Marlin until recently (3/3/2021). The first month of my printer experience was using Klipper. Due to this, the config in this repo is my best guess for stock settings. Another user sent me their tuned hotend PID temps for the stock hotend.
After leveling the bed, and saving it to EEPROM (M500), add M420 S1 after G28 in your start code. You do not need to run a bed-level before every print. This will load the mesh if you have already leveled your bed. Also pre-heat the bed before leveling due to expansion.
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp before proceeding
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M420 S1 ; Load bed mesh - marlin - NOTE: Level bed first and SAVE - issue M500 after leveling, then print.
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp before proceeding
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y300.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the first line
G1 X1.3 Y300.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X1.3 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E50 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
;M900 K0.2 ;Linear Advance - enable if using, make sure to calibrate first
It's still a work in progress.
The stabilizers are from Befenybay. They are NOT designed for the Ender 3 Max. If you look at the bottom left you'll see I flipped the bracket. It sits below the bottom of the printer, but just above the bottom bumpers. I added the bars as I was seeing wobble with fast printing speeds. Or design your own bracket and use a tap (the bolts are M5).