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3D Prints

This step requires you to print all the necessary models and put them together.

Arrow 3 Piece

Arrow 5 Piece

Back Plate

Center Panel

Center Panel Explode

Included Items

Breakdown of items included in this folder:

Material

For this project I opted to print all of my models using OVERTURE PETG (Black, White, and Transparent). I imagine you could very well print this in PLA or your material of choice, but keep in mind that PLA is stiffer and more brittle. I feel like PETG is a good material for this as it's a little more forgiving to stress, bending, etc.

I chose to use a Transparent filament for the top pieces so I get a good amount of light shining through, but I imagine that you could just as easily use White, or some other light coloured material depending on how much light you want to shine through.

What to Print

This guide assumes you want to print the full set of 4 cardinal arrows and 1 center arrow.

The only bit of customization here would be the style of cardinal arrow you want to print. I have included both a version with a single top piece, or a version with top piece split into three pieces. I believe the version split into three pieces is the more "proper" design, but the single piece is most likely easier to print and simulates the "cel" note skin for SMX.

All that being said, here's what you'll need:

  • 5 x Back Plate
  • 4 x Back Plate Connector
  • 1 x Center Base
  • 1 x Center Insert Inner
  • 1 x Center Insert Middle
  • 1 x Center Insert Outer
  • 1 x Center Top Inner
  • 1 x Center Top Outer
  • 4 x Arrow Base

If you want to print the three piece arrows you will also need:

  • 4 x Arrow Insert for 3 Piece
  • 4 x Arrow Top Head for 3 Piece
  • 4 x Arrow Top Body for 3 Piece
  • 4 x Arrow Top Tail for 3 Piece

If you want to print the one piece arrows instead, you will need:

  • 4 x Arrow Insert for 1 Piece
  • 4 x Arrow Top for 1 Piece

Print Settings, Tips and Tricks

Back Plate

The Back Plates can be a little tricky to print as they are not only very large, but need some considerable supports to support the gap the wire channels on the bottom leave. I would suggest dailing in some good support settings and hope for the best. At one point I tried using PLA as support material for my PETG Back Plates, but that didn't quite work all that well. Your mileage may vary.

General Print Settings:

  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Walls: 4
  • Surface Pattern: Monotonic Linear
  • Top Layers: 5
  • Bottom Pattern: Monotonic
  • Bottom Layers: 3
  • Infill: 25%
  • Infill Pattern: Gyroid
  • Support Type: Normal
  • Support Interface Distance: 0.2mm
  • Support Top Interface Layers: 3
  • Brim Type: Outer Brim Only
  • Brim Width: 10mm
  • Brim-Object Gap: 0.08mm

Back Plate Connector

Honestly, I found that this really wasn't enough to hold the plates together and I had to use a bunch of super glue, but either way if you want a tight fit for this connector, you can try printing increasing the scale by small amounts until you get the fit you are looking for. I suggest not scaling the height, so that it still ends up being flush.

Overall the print settings don't matter too much, but I suggest the following:

  • Layer Height: 0.2mm or smaller
  • Infill: 100%
  • Brim Type: Outer Brim Only
  • Brim Width: 3mm
  • Brim-Object Gap: 0.2mm

Insert Pieces

For the insert pieces, I opted to print them upside down and used supports for the overhangs. In this instance I found using a different material for the interface layer (PLA for PETG) to work quite well. The only reason I did this was because I have a textured build plate and really like the texture on the bottom layers and wanted to have that texture on the top side of my inserts. If you don't care about that, then just print them right side up and save yourself the trouble.

General Print Settings:

  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Walls: 3
  • Surface Pattern: Monotonic Linear
  • Top Layers: 5
  • Bottom Pattern: Monotonic
  • Bottom Layers: 2
  • Infill: 15%
  • Infill Pattern: Gyroid
  • Support Type: Normal
  • Support Interface Material: PLA
  • Support Interface Distance: 0 (This should probably be 0.2mm if you are using the same material)
  • Support Top Interface Layers: 3
  • Brim Type: Outer Brim Only
  • Brim Width: 7mm
  • Brim-Object Gap: 0.2mm

Base Pieces

The Base pieces have an indent on the bottom for orientating them properly with the back plates. Again just try to find some good overhang settings. In this instance I found using a different material for the interface layer (PLA for PETG) to work quite well.

General Print Settings:

  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Walls: 3
  • Surface Pattern: Monotonic Linear
  • Top Layers: 5
  • Bottom Pattern: Monotonic
  • Bottom Layers: 2
  • Infill: 10%
  • Infill Pattern: Gyroid
  • Support Type: Normal
  • Support Interface Material: PLA
  • Support Interface Distance: 0 (This should probably be 0.2mm if you are using the same material)
  • Support Top Interface Layers: 3

Top Pieces

For these pieces I would print them upside down (so the cavity is pointing up) and use a decently large brim. I personally had a lot of issues with bed adhesion as the surface area on the bed is fairly small.

General Print Settings:

  • Layer Height: 0.16mm
  • Walls: 4
  • Surface Pattern: Monotonic Linear
  • Top Layers: 1
  • Bottom Pattern: Hilbert Curve (For extra diffusion)
  • Bottom Layers: 1
  • Infill: 100%
  • Infill Pattern: Aligned Rectilinear
  • Support Type: None
  • Brim Type: Outer Brim Only
  • Brim Width: 15mm
  • Brim-Object Gap: 0.2mm or 0.1mm if 0.2mm is giving you trouble still

⚠️ Warning ⚠️

At this point, I would suggest not gluing anything together. We will cover that in the wiring section.