Replies: 27 comments 35 replies
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hello, thanks for little tutorial, I'm adding a template: {"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1} few details: |
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Hi, is there any chance you could make a video of how you disassembled it?, thanks. |
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video asi ne, ale nejake fotky sem dam, ted delam dalsi 2ks |
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please add, i don't understand how to unsolder the L and N Pins, could you also circle where what need unsolder on the pcb?, thx. |
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thx this photo help me |
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Good work! I'd suggest creating a device template in https://templates.blakadder.com/ where you can also post about the difficulties of how to flash the device. |
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i have problem set plug to boot |
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need flashing with 5v no 3.3v |
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Thanks everyone for this guide. It worked, the template was also very useful for configuring tasmota. Opening the plug was quite easy using a knife and pulling. Then unsoldering the ground pin was also possible, but unsoldering L and N was a real nightmare. With the help of low solder temp and flux and solder wick I finally got it done. I don't think I would do it again unless there is an easier way. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone else, I found it very difficult. Isn't flashing over the air an option here? Update: 11-7 |
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I couldn't decide should I buy this S60 or S26. I was leaning towards S60 due to ESP32 and personally better looking device, but when I saw how much PITA is to flash this device, I bought S26. Hope there will be an easier way to flash it in the future. |
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Sure, you can do it easier. Just cut a big hole in the side 😀 |
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Heh, yeah, in that case I will just stick with S26. |
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the advantage of the S60 is that it can measure power usage, which the S26 cannot. if you don't need that, the S26 is an easy alternative |
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Yes, although I don't need that feature, it might come handy. @ouinouin can you please take a couple pictures of that printed jig and how you use it for flashing? Also, from where you take 5V and GND? I just recently managed to open that file with FreeCAD and seems like it should be way easier to do it this way, if it doesn't involve (much, if any) soldering. |
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firmware is only tasmota32c3.bin to use- which is only english. |
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You are right that it is very wrong, as it is a different hardware architecture. Due to the many variants (both hardware and config) and languages, the Tasmota project does not provide localized builds for other than the base variants. |
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ok I searched a bit and found this to compile my own build with specific language. |
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i needed no soldering, i just got some flexible piece of metal from smail chinese wire grips and bended the end in s shape. i slide it on the side of the card, it requires multiple tries to get it correctly (basically i launch the flashing command in a continuous loop then try to place the jig correctly. i tap 5v and gnd from other accessible places on the pcb.
Le 14 juillet 2024 19:34:15 GMT+02:00, netizeni ***@***.***> a écrit :
…Yes, although I don't need that feature, it might come handy.
@ouinouin can you please take a couple pictures of that printed jig and how you use it for flashing? Also, from where you take 5V and GND? I just recently managed to open that file with FreeCAD and seems like it should be way easier to do it this way, if it doesn't involve (much, if any) soldering.
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Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub:
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It would be highly appreciated if you could take some photos of that setup, as it's quite hard to image it over text. |
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The original post describes a good approach, and it doesn't seem to be wise to stray far from that path, at least not as long as there isn't a better description utilizing a jig that avoids L+N soldering. Heating and pulling at the same time wasn't working out well initially, so I went for the alternative option mentioned here of using a solder wick. It was a big mistake, a ton of solder ends up being on the other side, and at one point there will be no solder on the top to assist with heat distribution, so after a lot of pointless struggling, I ended up adding some solder back. Still, the largest mistake was seeing all the helpful info here and figuring that if there's a way (with a beaten path at that), I'll supply the will. Thanks for everyone for all the helpful information though. If only the manufacturer would have just a fraction of this good will. |
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I found an alternative solution: cut out a window and then glue it back together. There should also GND point be available in that Windows.
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Yeah, I mentioned that idea already, but people seem to think that it is too brutal 🤛 |
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I like this approach. It worked very well for me after destroying one with the desoldering approach. Don't have to take it apart, only cut the small window. I had probe needles available and then even a smaller opening is good enough. |
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Hey Guys, Does anyone knows? Great work btw.. just ordered 2 of these... |
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@tykasan NEVER again NEVER add anything to power metering sockets. There is by design AC mains level at the GPIOs. |
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Ok, I didnt know there is a AC main level voltage at ESP32 GPIO .. I was really not aware of that... |
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Sonoff Basic has no power monitoring. The hardware design is different. The Sonoff Basic has no AC mains level on the GPIOs If done safely it is fine to add a sensor to the Sonoff Basic. |
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There is always AC mains at the GPIOs, if the device has power monitoring. |
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Thanks for prompt explanation and saving my home appliance's :) I think I'll just add a secondary ESP module with sensor onboard. |
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@tykasan Have a look to the Shelly Plus 1 with the Plus Add-On, Shelly Plus Add-On Temperature Sensor |
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No, I was not aware... but its nice to know that such things exists... Thanks! |
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Hi, |
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Pinout should be visible on the back side of that small PCB; this is shown in the images in the first post. |
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thank sfromis |
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Use the round test point labeled 3V3. |
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great ! thank a lot ! |
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few pictures of the jig in action
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Well done |
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Thanks, how does the power supply look? I think the grounding connection is mass, what voltage do you apply to the left socket? |
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i dont remember well , but i think on the picture with the small screwdriver , the violet cable is the ground, and i connected the 5V to the "socket ground metal plate", taking the 5V then to a soler join that we can barely see on the picture on the mainboard this is the 5v line used for powering the whole 5V part of the relay daughterboard, and it comes back to the ESP32 board). in this way i need only to align the TX and RX pin with my jig, its already very difficult to do so, i sometimes try 30 times before suceeding. |
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hello, |
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unfortunately those kind of flash methods are long gone, sonoff is not offering friendly ways of flashing on this socket. |
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here is the damages... |
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Comparison with the better image from the start of the thread appears to show two traces removed. The outer one is likely just ground, and may not be critical, but the next (from the left) looks bad, and hard to see what was connected, outside of probing connectivity. |
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With the right tools, it could be doable to scrape off solder mask, and solder a tiny wire to recreate the lost connection. |
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you're right ! |
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Just wanted to add that the torx screw size is 5. |
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Torx-6 |
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you're right ! |
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what's the point of using the sonoff S60 socket since the same socket exists with tasmota already installed? this socket is the NOUS A1T. |
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While the form factor and function is indeed very similar, it is not "the same socket". Still, I'd not want to mess with the Sonoff S60 when there are easier options available..... In some markets, the Sonoff one may be easier to purchase. |
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Very, very hard to do but finally successful !!! |
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Using 5V is generally very bad, risks frying the chip, instead of the right voltage of 3.3V. And if it did not work on 3.3V, that's an unsuitable USB/serial adapter unable to deliver the needed power. |
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You can find a point for 3.3 and 5:
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Thanks helmutacp and sfromis... |
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now i try to use template from this post {"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1} |
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sorry that's works fine with this template... |
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flashing is relatively quick operation... no damage at this time... |
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Hi,
Purchased recently the sonoff S60 , they are esp32C3 based sockets with 4000w switching power advertised, and power monitoring, based on the CSE7759B chipset.
the socket is not easy to dismantle, it requires to have a nice soldering iron with a bg tip since you ll have to unsolder the earth "bar while you entered inside the socket.
the main entrance is as for the gosund/nous sockets , inside the female earth pin at the back of the socket.
once the small torx scew is removed, you ll have to pull the grey cover, but its a bit glued, so you have to pry with cisors or another cuting tool all around the limit of the greycover and the body of the socket, the gluing is not so strong, you ll hear some few gracks while applying force with ce cisors in the junction.
once inside, you have to unsolder the earth bar, you ll notice some solder on it, heat and pull with pliers.
the grey plasting protecting the Lan N female pins, is clippend on th board, pull it with a thin plier or by the help of a screwdriver.
then, you ll have to unsolder the L and N bars that are coming from the back of the socket, unlike the gosund, where it was screwed, those ones are not easily removable, you have to heat the huge amount of tin on each pad, and melt also the invisible amount of tin that is located behind the board, then pull side by side with thin pliers, repeat the heating/pulling operation until the board gets out. , i pulled side by side with long pliers holding the copper of the L an N. once finished, the board will come off and youll e able to access to the pins of the microboard. the tx/RX are available through some pads on the mainboard and on the microboard. i prefered to solder my wires for flashing at the junction of the mainboard and the microboard. i flashed the board with tasmota webinstalled without issues.
i used the 5V pad to supply and test the board before reassembly, and used my serial to usb converter to supply the board while flashing with 5V levels, even if not considered safe, it worked. if you want to take it the safe way, consider powering via the 3.3V pad on the microboard.
here is the identification of the pins :
as per my knowledge this is to date the only teardown/flash of this model, more infos are welcome
![Uploading 20240423_003809.jpg
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