All components -- resistors, diodes, and sockets -- go on the top (silk screen) side of the shim board.
Solder them from the bottom.
BE CAERFUL to line up the black stripe with the stripe in the silk screen.
They are made of a bead of glass, be very careful with them.
Start by placing the sockets on your processor
then insert the sockets into the Shim.
Flip it over and solder the pins
When soldering in the 1x6 sockets, be sure to use the short ones that came in the bag with the Driver Board. Be sure that the sockets are fully seated on the board and perpendicular to it; otherwise, you will have trouble connecting the motors later. Best to solder one connection and then check before you solder the other five.
The sockets go in the outer positions.
Start with both boards.
Add four sets of pins, as shown. The short leg of the pins go into the board; the long legs stick up.
Remove the shim after soldering to check the joints
The tabs should protrude roughly 1/16 inch above the Driver Board.
Solder the 1x9 socket to your line sensor. The sockets go on the OPPOSITE side from the sensors, as shown.
Use your 3/4 inch standoffs to attach the line sensor. You'll want to do this now because it will be hard to mount the sensor after you solder in the shim.
(Your sensor will have the sockets mounted.)
Slip the shim board back on the pins you solder to the Driver Board in Step 9. Be sure the shim is fully seated before soldering (use tape again). The long pins will protrude well above the shim. That's OK.
If you are in any doubt about your soldering work so far, have someone look over your soldering work (SA, LA, TA, faculty, lab manager, friends, romans, countrymen...).
Once you solder the shim board to the Driver Board, repairing bad solder joints will range from troublesome to impossible.
Add the motor Clips to both sides
Slide the motor in, being careful to get the motor pins into the receiving socket you soldered earlier:
Once aligned, fully seat the motor
Do the same for the other motor
Put your ESP32 into the sockets in the shim board. Pay close attention to orientation -- the shim has text for which end the USB connector is on. Plug in the USB cable.
- Check that the 5V pin is at 5 +/- 0.1 V
- Check 3.3V pin is at 3.3 +/- 0.1 V
- Add batteries, power on the Driver Board and unplug the USB
- Check 5V and 3.3V pins again
Under Tools -> Board select
ESP32 Dev Module
Place the jumper on the two pins marked DISABLE MOTOR (as in the front right of the picture below). This will connect the "sleep" pin to ground so your motors won't fight against you when you move them by hand.
Plug the USB back in.
Open your IDE of choice and program the example
RBE1001Lib/EncoderTest
Open the serial monitor after programming. Set the baud rate to "115200 baud" (in the lower right of the Serial Monitor). Gently roll the Romi forward and backward (the shim board faces the front) and verify that the wheels count up when rolling forward and down when backwards.
Open and upload the example
RBE1001Lib/MotorSpeedTest
After programming, pick up your robot and pull the sleep jumper out of the shim. The motors will start spinning. It may jump if there is a wiring issue, so do not do this with the robot on the table or it may drive off. Pick it up!
Use 2x of your 1 inch standoffs to attach the riser using the recessed screws as shown. Look for the screw head near each motor. Attach the standoff below with a nut from inside the battery compartment.
Use the 1 1/2 inch standoffs in the back to secure the back of the riser plate.
(Ignore the wires in the picture -- this was an old version before the shim.)
Note that the caster is "sprung" so you will probably want to push on the top of the receptacle for the caster.